The Command Post
Iraq
April 27, 2003
Liberated Baghdad streets awash in booze, smokes
. . . . there's a fag stall of all flavours every 10 metres and almost as many sidewalk vendors of alcohol: Johnnie Walker, Dimple, Bells, Absolut, all $25 (U.S.) a bottle. Suddenly, tubs of ice-cold Heineken and Amstel have appeared, replacing the Turkish-brewed Efes Pilsener that was the suds-of-choice (actually, no choice) in Saddam's hermetically sealed Iraq.

Where did all this contraband come from, almost overnight? But then Iraqis, after 12 years of United Nations-imposed sanctions, have become expert at smuggling and bootlegging. Oil, spirits, what's the dif?

. . . There was a time — and many Baghdadis will remember it, or have a vestigial sense of it — when this Westernized capital was a racy metropolis indeed. Before it became, in the last decade of the Saddam regime, a sort of Albania of the desert, all greasy gloom and dreary, Baghdad knew how to frolic.

Yeah, baby!

. . . and here's another Baghdad slice-of-life from Toronto Star reporter Rosie Di Manno.

At one local police station the other day, reporters found a stash of curious documents. Nothing earth-shaking, just a list of local barbers and hairdressers, all of whom had to sign agreements with the authorities in exchange for their licences promising to provide to security agencies all the idle gossip overheard in their establishments: Who might have made a disparaging remark about Saddam's wife, who was rumoured to have a little too much money in her handbag, whose son had perhaps slipped out of the country — anything that might be used to threaten and punish.

The regime survived so long because it made tattle-tales and conspirators out of everybody. Iraqis were enslaved by their own betrayals and the conviction that all others were doing the same. There were jins — mean spirits — down every telephone line and telex machine. This is my favourite story: A United Nations worker from Ethiopia phones a colleague in New York, switching in mid-conversation from English to his native Amharic. At which point a voice cuts in, instructing the gentlemen to "please continue in a language we can understand.''

Posted By Judith (Kesher Talk) at April 27, 2003 03:12 AM | TrackBack
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Whiskey: check

Sexy: (probably)

Democracy:

It's the last that's trickiest, isn't it? I'd like to see what a democratic Iraq could do, considering what their culture has always been. It would be sad if none of it survived long enough for Iraq to become democratic.

Posted by: Gabriel Hanna at April 27, 2003 03:35 AM

They can have all the american beer they want, but they will never get drunk on that piss water. Give them real democracy, give them Canadian beer, that way they will be much too drunk to ever snipe and hit A USA trooper.

Posted by: Bubba at April 27, 2003 03:40 AM

Smuggling? No, no: "border trading" is the term.

And a heck of a lot of booze floating around in a mostly Moslem country. But then, it was pointed out early on that Umm Qasr's occupation caused a lot of Kuwaiti's to apply for a weekend or more there. it serves as an equivalent of Tijuana for them by being awash in beer, wine, and liquor.

Posted by: John Anderson at April 27, 2003 04:19 AM

Bubba, if you're talking about Budweiser, Coors, etc I understand, but there are lots of good American microbrews--at least here in the Pacific Northwest there are.

In the grocery stores in this town there must be at least 50 different brands of beer. A lot of them I've never seen out of the Northwest.

Posted by: Gabriel Hanna at April 27, 2003 04:21 AM

But what concerns me, Bubba, is that the only beers mentioned in that article were Dutch and Turkish. Did I miss something, or did you take a gratuitous swipe at American beer?

Sad, if true.

Posted by: Gabriel Hanna at April 27, 2003 04:24 AM

John;
That may be true; however, I have heard that Kuwait has an island, which is completly Islam-free! I heard most American troops go there for fun time during their stay there.

Posted by: Aslan at April 27, 2003 06:02 AM

#4, yep, there are many fine American beers, but local tastes determine what sells and what don't. In Nigeria the top tipple remains double strength Guinness - nice and sweet and 9% a.b.v. Guinness is now trying to brew it in Dublin to retal to ex-pat Nigerians in Ireland!

Micro-brewing in Iraq (which can't be too far away) is going to be interesting. At least the first breweries will benefit from excellent PR on the ground. "Yes, yes, I triple guarantee you there are no American beers in Bagdad. We have crushed their bottle tops at the gates of the city. Sam Adams a decent beer? I now tell you that you are too far from reallity..."

Posted by: Bobster at April 27, 2003 07:37 AM

People keep assuming that because somebody is Moslem, they _don't_ drink (as opposed to _shouldn't_).

I am unacquainted with any Christians that never sin. I'd be surprised if there were many Moslems who never sinned.

Posted by: Kathleen at April 27, 2003 10:46 AM

Drinking Dutch beer: that means the free market is already working. I assume they import the real stuff, not the sweetened 'export Heineken'. From suppliers of tourist hotels in Greece or on the coast of Turkey I think -- they probably have little else to do.

It would would be very nice if they also imported Dutch cutflowers to make some bouquets for their liberators...

Posted by: dajak at April 27, 2003 12:11 PM

Yes, some Moslems drink. Some Christians (including several Baptists I know), refuse to drink. Heck, I've enjoyed steak dinners with Hindu (by birth) friends. Perhaps one good thing that will come out of this is the liberalization - seen by both Moslem and Western nations, of a Moslem country. If Westerners can look at Iraq in five years and see a place that is no more "radical" than Taiwan or Tokyo, and Arab nations see that, rather than being washed by God in sheets of fire the Iraqis are enjoying an economic and political rebirth, things will indeed start to change.

Posted by: BacksightForethought at April 27, 2003 12:13 PM

Dubai in the Gulf is an absolute paradise - sun, sand, booze, clean (mostly), nightclubs - and PROSPERITY.

Posted by: JohninLondon at April 27, 2003 01:02 PM

Yes, it was a swipe at American beers, at least the ones I've tasted. old milwakee, blue ribbon, a few others.
I haven't tasted every american beer, but for the mosat part, they are weak beers.
Canadian brewed beers are just better, try a canadian brewed budwieser, much different than the american counterpart.
I'm sure they make a good beer somewhere in the USA, I just haven't seen it.

Posted by: Bubba at April 27, 2003 02:24 PM

I found this quote rather telling. Where are their ethics? I guess if you are brazen about it and admit your pilfering, then you are cleansed of your sins. Albeit: Eason Jordan

"We've all turned into scavengers, whether just pilfering a jerrycan of petrol from an army fuel truck, or ransacking and torching every public building in the capital, or pinching whole racks of Uday Hussein's Elvis-kitschy wardrobe, as was done by a certain British journalist of my acquaintance who pillaged the Number 1 son's Shag Palace. "

Posted by: Kathy at April 27, 2003 02:44 PM

Bubba, you've been drinking Old Milwaukee and Pabst Blue Ribbon? If you've had Miller High Life and Schmidt Red you can complete the set of America's Worst Beers.

If that's been your experience I can't blame you for feeling the way you do.

Posted by: Gabriel Hanna at April 27, 2003 05:46 PM

Bubba, you might try Samuel Adams, if you can find it up there. Any of them are pretty good.

Posted by: Gabriel Hanna at April 27, 2003 05:47 PM

They're also serving British beer and Guinness in southern Iraq. That's why the natives seem happier !

None of that US cats' pee LOL

Posted by: JohninLondon at April 27, 2003 05:51 PM

I don't know anything about British beer. But the US doesn't have anything as good as Guinness.

Posted by: Gabriel Hanna at April 27, 2003 06:19 PM

hey...i LIKE PBR!!!!!!

Posted by: mike lawson at April 27, 2003 07:00 PM

OK, beer is a subject close to my heart. I think the Iraqi people could use a good kegger about now. I agree that really good beer in the US takes hunting for. Personally, I don't trust a beer that I can see through, thus my love of stouts and darker ales, etc.

Cooper's Extra Stout from Australia is one of my favorites, as good or better than the Guiness we get in the US, but I supect we don't get the real deal. Buttwiper has always been the worst American beer. Why it sells so much in the US is a mystery to me. Coors Lite is like sex in a rowboat, it is farging close to water.

There are so many good beers from Europe, it is hard to list them all. There are some pretty good micros in the US, you just have to look a little harder for them.

Posted by: Elvis at April 27, 2003 08:30 PM

If you want good beer in Canada, drop by Swans in Victoria. They brew their own. They have a Scotch Ale to die for -- and at 8% you feel like it the next day.

As for Canadian big brewery beer. Yuck.

Posted by: Bruce at April 28, 2003 11:28 AM
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